How to Truly Enjoy Natural Wine

We live in an age of polarized opinions. Everything seems to lack a middle ground. Just when many are saying that natural wine has become too mainstream, iconic natural winemaker Arianna Occhipinti made headlines by encouraging natural wine producers to participate in Vinitaly, Italy’s biggest mainstream wine trade fair. “There are too many natural wine fairs,” she said.

On one hand, some feel that the once cool-kid drink is no longer cool. On the other, natural wine has somehow made the wine world more divided than ever—more fragmented, harder to define, and even harder to promote.

But here’s the reality: people aren’t actually that divided.

I learned this firsthand through the wine tasting tours I’ve been hosting in Paris. All the wines I serve are natural or quasi-natural. And my guests? They’re not natural wine drinkers—not even close. Most of them drink entry-level commercial wines and have never heard terms like low-intervention, biodynamic, or even natural wine. And yet, surprisingly, most of them loved the wines I poured. That made me think: it's often easier to help everyday wine drinkers enjoy and appreciate natural wine than to convince certain wine snobs in the industry to even give it a try.

I'm not running a natural wine bar at home (or am I?)

Why Traditional Wine Drinkers Often Misjudge Natural Wine

Many traditional wine drinkers have the wrong idea about natural wine. And honestly? They’re not entirely to blame.

Beyond the persistent stereotype that natural wine is all “funky” and unstable, there’s a deeper, structural reason behind this skepticism: wine education systems like the WSET and other sommelier certification programs. These programs have standardized the way wine is taught, analyzed, and appreciated. They often define what a wine should be: clear, consistent, stable,and technically correct.

If your palate has been trained to see wine as a lab-curated product, then anything that falls outside the mold naturally seems... well, funky.

But this doesn’t only apply to natural wine. Drinkers used to New World wines often find Old World wines too subtle or “hard to understand.” Likewise, some Old World purists find New World styles too technical or too perfect. The same logic applies to natural wines. Because natural wine emphasizes terroir, craftsmanship, and minimal intervention, wines from regions or producers that prioritize these traits are often less “clean” or “polished” by conventional standards—and that’s exactly the point.

The Natural Wine World Has a Communication Problem

One major issue within the natural wine world is the lack of education and a systematic way to communicate appreciation. While standardized wine training can sometimes limit the palate or suppress diversity, the opposite problem exists with natural wine: there’s too little structure, too little education.

Many sommeliers in natural wine bars lack a holistic understanding of wine regions or classic wine styles. They tend to overemphasize factors like sulfite levels or skin contact without providing a bigger picture. Without context, a wine recommendation lacks credibility. Why is this a better choice? Why is it worth trying?

If we want natural wine to be better understood and more widely appreciated, we need to raise the standard of communication within the natural wine community—not just drink better, but speak better about it.

So, How to Truly Enjoy Natural Wine?

Whether you’re a casual drinker or a wine professional, there are a few key principles to help you appreciate natural wine more fully:

1. Keep an Open Mind

Forget everything you think a wine should taste like. The terms and tasting notes you remember from textbooks may actually limit your palate. A Sauvignon Blanc can still be excellent even if it doesn’t smell like cat pee. A bit of volatile acidity can be a positive trait in a wine that naturally lacks acidity. A healthy amount of Brett can enhance a Châteauneuf-du-Pape as well as a natural wine.

Most of these wines aren’t faulty—they’re just unfamiliar. Just like many of us didn’t love coffee on the first sip, our appreciation for natural wine can develop over time.

2. Understand That Wine Evolves

Wine is almost a living thing, especially when it’s made with low intervention. Without the heavy use of sulfites, filtration, or additives, natural wine evolves more noticeably over time—even in the glass. Aromas can change after a few minutes. The texture might shift. What seems reductive or closed at first may open up beautifully after decanting or simply sitting.

This dynamic character is part of the charm of natural wine—it’s less static, more alive.

3. Use the Right Glassware and Serve It Well

Natural wine deserves proper wine glasses just as much as Grand Cru Burgundy does. Yet this is often overlooked. How many times have I been served a delicate chillable red or a layered skin-contact wine in a tiny ISO tasting glass?

Glassware matters. Lighter reds and orange wines often need a larger bowl to express their complexity. And serving temperature is equally crucial. I often see reds and oranges served too cold, muting their aromas and textures, while Pet-Nats are poured barely chilled. A little attention to detail can go a long way.

Serving time matters, too. In the fast-paced world of wine bars and tastings, natural wine is often opened and poured right away. While that supports wine’s democratization and eliminates snobbery, some wines—especially structured reds and orange wines—benefit from a bit of air. A quick decant or even letting the bottle sit open for 15 minutes can transform your drinking experience.

At the end of the day, a good wine should be balanced and pleasant to drink, natural or not.

This is where I may differ from some natural wine lovers: I apply the same quality standards to natural wine as I do to conventional wine. A bad wine is a bad wine, regardless of how little sulfur was used or how wild the fermentation was. Technical flaws that overwhelm the wine or make it unpleasant to drink shouldn’t be excused in the name of philosophy.

Natural wine should be a celebration of terroir and honest winemaking, not an excuse for poor craftsmanship.

Where to Start with Natural Wine

If you’ve read this far, you’re probably convinced—or at least curious. Or maybe you're a natural wine fan looking to convert a few skeptical friends. So where should beginners start?

My answer may surprise you: be a label drinker.

“Label drinker” often gets thrown around as an insult, implying pretentiousness or status-chasing. But in this context, it’s practical. Drinking by label reduces risk and sets you up for a good first impression. Start with established, reputable natural winemakers—not to show off your Gravner bottle on Instagram, but to understand what great natural wine can taste like.

Winemaking is a craft that takes years to master. Low-intervention winemaking, where you don’t manipulate the wine to “fix” mistakes, takes even more skill. Yes, newcomers and experimental producers are important, but for a solid introduction, start with producers who have honed their craft.

Avoid the most radical winemakers at first, the ones making wine out of ideas before mastering the craft. (This isn’t a criticism, we appreciate experimentation, but for beginners, let's play safe)

Some Natural Winemakers I Recommend for Beginners:

• Jean Foillard – Morgon, Beaujolais, France

• Arianna Occhipinti – Vittoria, Sicily, Italy

• Vino di Anna – Mount Etna, Sicily, Italy

• Foradori – Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy

• COS – Vittoria, Sicily, Italy

• Claus Preisinger – Burgenland, Austria

• Judith Beck – Burgenland, Austria

• Apostolos Thymiopoulos – Naoussa, Macedonia, Greece